Blooper Eel REV1

The instructions

(these instructions are available in Norwegian)

Finito

First a quick Q and A:

Q: Will Blooper Eel make me a more successful businessman / businesswoman?

A: Yes

 

Q: I’m not a businessman/woman, why in gods name do i need a “Blooper Eel”?

A: Because this:

 

New audio machinery kit for workshop. #BlooperEel #bandorg #cmos #40106 #pewpewpew

En video publisert av Daniel (@captain_credible)

 

And thats all the questions we have time for now lets begin:

 

1-Parts

We needsolder iron

1x Blooper Eel Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

1x battery

1x battery clip

1x 14pin IC socket

1x 40106 hex schmidt trigger inverter IC

5x 1uF electrolytic capacitors

2x 1Mohm linear potentiometer

5x 1kohm resistors (brown-black-red)

2x 220ohm resistors (red-red-brown) make that 2 more 1kohm resistors

1x 0.1uf ceramic capacitor

1x microswitch

4x Light Dependant Resistor (LDR)

3x Light Emitting Diode (LED)

 

You will also need a soldering Iron, some solder and a pair of wire clippers

 

1. Bottom side LDRs

1-underside-ldrs

Well start off by flipping the board upside down and mounting these two LDRs in the middle as shown. These will be pretty hard to solder in place later as you will see. Simply push the legs through the holes, and then bend the legs apart so that they dont fall out when you turn the board back over again.

Then we need to solder the legs in place:

1-soldering-the-ldrs

If you have never soldered before there are plenty of beginners guides to find online but this pictures sums it up nicely.how to solderUse the soldering iron to heat up both the LDRs leg and the metal solder pad around the hole. then apply the solder to the point where they all meet. if the solder wont melt at first, touch it against the tip of the soldering iron to get it going.

1-clip

 

Now use a  pair of wire clippers to clip the rest of the legs off. try to cut the legs as short as possible, we need to fit the IC on top.

 

2. The IC socket

2-IC-indent

The IC socket has an indent that is supposed to match up with the indent drawn on

 

 

 

2-IC-socket

The IC socket slots into its place from the top og the board, so that the legs peep out on either side of the LDRs. the PCB.  If you use too much solder you might accidentallymake a blob that covers two legs. These legs then become connected together (shortcircuited), wich is bad. If this happens, clean the tip of your soldering iron and then pull it between the two legs that are shorted. Some solder will come off the legs and stick to the soldering iron. repeat this process until the soldering looks good.

3. The 1kohm resistors

These are the resistors that will mix the different audio signals together, and turn down the volume a little bit so we don’t destroy our speakers and or our ears. The resistors positions are marked on the board, here you cab see all 5

3-1k-here

The 1kohm resistors are marked brown-black-red (here is a neat tool for understanding why)

3-1k-resistors

 

(note, i only soldered in 4 of the 5 resistors here and noticed my error later)

oh and in case you where wondering, it doesnt matter what way round resistors go.

4. The Minijack socket

4-minijack

This plops in amidst the resistors we just soldered. i bent the top pin up a bit so that the minijack socket wouldn’t fall out when i flipped the board over. Then solder as usual.

5. The 1uF electrolytic capacitors

5-caps

These are easy to identify as they have 1uF printed on the side. likewise the places where they go have 1uf printed on the PCB. Because they are electrolytic it is important that they go in the right way.

5-caps-polarity

 

Note that one of the capacitor holes (the one directly above the IC) is for a bigger 1000uF capacitor, well get to that one later.

 

6. The 0.1uF (100nF) ceramic capacitor

This one is a lot smaller and goes in the spot marked 100nF, If you’re wondering about the whole 0.1uF/100nF thing take a look here (spoiler: they mean the same)

6-100nf

7. The Microswitch

This one is pretty much a no-brainer, it doesn’t matter what way round this goes. The microswitch goes in the spot marked “PEWPEW!” here, look:

7-switch

 

I added a lot of arrows showing where it goes to make it even easier, you can not fail!

8. The 220ohms 2 more 1kohm resistors

where going to have to slap a couple of 220 ohm resistors in to limit the current going to the LEDs, I forgot to take pictures of me doing this so this montage of descriptive images will have to do:

8-220-2

(it’s red-red-brown) ignore this image its supposed to ne 1kohm wich is brown-black-red

8-220ohm

Again, ignore the fact that it says 220ohms, your Blooper Eel is much more likely to live a long and healthy life with two 1kohm resistors here!

9. The Battery Clip

This wants to be fed up through the holes from the bottom of the board before sticking the ends back down and soldering. this is so they dont come off so easily when they get tugged.

9-batt

Solder it in place (solder on the underside of the board)like all the other components.

 

9. The Potentiometers

What is a potentiometer? here is what it is.

We need to show out potentiometers who’s boss by benting its legs backwards.

9-potbend

This is so we can mount it from the underside of the PCB like this

9-potmount

and yes, solder all the legs on.

 

10. solder that 1kohm resistor you forgot earlier

oops-resistor

Aaaand this is when i realized i had missed a resistor heh… happens to the best of us.

 

11. Light Dependent Resistors

WTF are Light dependent resistors? they’re resistors, that vary with light, thats what they are. Some people call them photocells, whatever. Anyway we arent going to push these all the way through the board, instead we are going to balance them a tiny bit through the holes and then solder. I thought it was easier to solder these from the top, because i ‘m a rebel. Theres two of them on the top of the board, solder them both before it’s too late.

11-LDRS2

LDRs are not “polarized” that means it doesnt matter what way round we solder them.

 

12. Light Emitting Diodes

Light Emitting Diodes (or LEDs) are polarized. So like the electrolytic capacitors we soldered earlier, we have to make sure they go in the right way round. And Like the LDRs we just soldered, we want them to stand high up from the board like little yellow slendermen.  (Apart from the middle one(sync led) this one can be pushed all the way through. )

the short leg is the negative leg (cathode) and wants to go through the hole next to the flat edge on the symbol on the  board.

LEDS

dont screw this up!

for more amazing facts on LEDs look here

12. Slam dunk that 40106 hex schmidt trigger inverter into that sweet IC socket, awwwwww yiss!

The title says it all, apart from this bit that I am writing now. You probably have to straighten the legs a wee bit to get it in the socket, make sure you get all the legs in at once when you push it in or you might bend and mangle one of the legs. (if the top left or bottom right leg is broken nothing will work, if any of the others are broken only some things will not work)

Make sure you have a chip that looks like this (not this) and has 40106 written on it somewhere

12-40106

this one looks good to go looks good to go. So lets carefully straighten the legs against a table or something hard, make them point more or less straight down .

12-IC-straighten

Now push it carefully in to the socket, the indent is there to tell you what way round it should be. If you put it in upsidedown it will probably break.

12-align

 

13. Check for shortcircuits

Is there anything connected or touching that shouldnt be ? solder spilled between legs on components? or lets that are touching eachother?

13.-CHECK

If you shortcircuit your LDRs or your LEDs like this they wont work, it wont break anything though so just bend them apart and be on with your merry blooping.

14. Do the rest of the stuff that we havent done yet

rest

Connect the battery, bend the LDRs and the LEDs towards eachother, stick the battery to the back of the potentiometers with double sided tape. Easy.

Knobs

now pimp it up with some sick knobs, use a screwdriver to tighten them on if your knobs are the type that like that.

15. Plug in your headphones/speaker/Public announcement system and press the button marked PEWPEW! to instantly melt your face of in an epic climax of sheer awesomeness!

This time the title really does say it all, do what the title says!

Finito

 

look at your baby, isn’t it beautiful?

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