Bit Shatter voice changer

The instructions

So you want to solder your kit together? LETS DO THIS!!

 

Step 0


check out all the cool shit you got!

All this stuff is yours now! what does it do ? nobody knows.

Oh! And also these thingies that i forgot to put on the first picture. Sorry i’m not perfect, first step in the instructions and I already fucked up. Jeez. 

 

 

STEP1:


Solder the resistors

Get your soldering iron hot, and if you have no idea how to solder then watch this video real quick: –>

Then dig out your resistors from the pile of components. Thats the beige sausages with colourful stripes. There should be three of them. Two 1k resistors, with brown-black-red stipes. and one 10k resistor, with brown-black-orange stripes. 

Lets start with the 1k ones (brown-black-red). 

Place them on the two spots marked 1k, and thread the legs through the holes. I like to bend the legs out slightly to keep them in place when i turn the board over and solder them in place. Do that now. Solder them. Then when youve finished doing that, you can solder the 10k resistor, thats the one that is brown-black-orange.

It goes right here, above the two 1k resistors. where it ways 10k.

Remember, it doesn’t matter what way around you put these components. Resistors are not what we call polarized components, they literally don’t give a fuck.

 

STEP 2:


capacitors!

These guys are however very picky about what way round you stick them. You should have 3 electrolytic capacitors. One that says 10uF on the side somewhere, and two others that say 1uF. Lets start with the 10uF one. Stick the long leg in the round hole, this is the positive leg. And stick the short leg in the “square” hole with the “-” symbols on either side. The “-” symbols printed down the side of the capacitor should also be on the side with the square hole.

 

Solder it in place and then dig out your two 1uF caps and stick them next to it like so:

Then find your ceraic capacitor, the one that looks like an orange thats been squashed into a disc and had the number 104 printed on the side (104 actually means its a 0.1uF capacitor).

This one’s not polarize, so stick it in whichever way you like.

 

STEP 3:


Pushbuttons!

You’re gonna need some pushbuttons to do shit. Stick them on the bottom edges of the board.

Thats it. Easy

 

STEP 4:


I.C. Socket!

This is where the ATTiny85 microchip will go. The notch should be facing in towards the middle of the board.

 

Great job!

 

STEP 5:


Headphone jack

Solder this baby on. This headphone jack actually has a built in on of switch. So the voice changer will turn utself on when you connect your headphones or a minijack.

 Try and get it all the way down and snug on the board before you solder it. 

 

STEP 6:


LED!

LED stands for light emitting diode. It will only work one way round (hence diode) but the circuitboard can be a little bit confusing as to what is the positive and what is the negative terminal. Stick the long leg through the square hole, and the short leg through the roung hole.

The more observant individuals might notice that the one side of the LEDs base is flattened. This lines up wit hthe outline drawn on the circuitboard.

 

STEP 7:


Electret Microphone

This one can be tricky. Its not easy to see what leg is positive and what leg is negative. But you had better get it right. One leg has 3 lines going out from it to the chassis of the microphone.

Also, to se what hole in the board is positive and what hole is negative, you need to take a look at the underside where you’ll see a “+” and a “-”

The negative leg (the one with the three lines) needs to go through the hole with the “-” next to it

Also make shure not to use too much solder and if you can, try to keep the microphone standing a little off the surface of the board so you dont short circuit the holes together.

 

STEP 8:


Short the jumper (unless you plan on putting the big jack on)

 

where going to be looking at the bottom side og the board now. in the middle of the shattered glass youll fing two pads close together.

This is what we call a jumper. And if you don’t plan on putting a big 1/4″ guitar jack on the Bit Shatter, you need to short circuit this jumper. To do that just put a blob of solder on it to connect the pads together.

Once your done you should have a nice blob like this:

 

Amazing! But thats not all we’re putting on the bottom.

 

STEP 9:


Battery clip!

Put it where the outline is drawn. Don’t put it the wrong way round. Put it the right way round.

 

Stick the battery in it with the “+” side facing up

Whaddup! 

 

STEP 10:


Shove the chip in the socket

You might want to straighten the legs of the chip out first to make it easier to get it into the socket. I like to bend them against the tabletop like this:

Then stick it in the socket

Make sure you do this the right way round. The dot on the chip needs to be on the same side as the indent on the socket.

 

STEP 11:


DONE!

You nailed it ! Plug in your headphones or stereo or something!

Don’t freak out if you cant hear anything at first! It takes a while for the electret microphone to charge. Also try to make sure you hold it by the edges like in the mage above. if you touch certain parts on the underside you can short out the microphone and you’ll have to wait for it to build up charge again before you’ll hear anything.

The plus button steps the pitch up and the minus button steps the pitch down. 

(If it still doesnt work after 3 minutes and you are sure you’re not holding it wrong, look for short circuits big blobs of solder in the wring places and cold solder joints. Adafruit has a really good guide to what might have gone wrong)

 

BONUS EXTRA STEP:


Stick a 1/4″ jack on the bottom!

WARNING! THIS WON’T WORK IF THE JUMPER IN STEP 8 IS SHORTED!

(with a bit of practice you can easily desolder the jumper if you need too though!)

Stick the 1/4″ jack here:

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